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THE MANCHESTER CONURBATION is divided up amongst a number of local authorities. The City of Manchester often takes on a leading role in local affairs, as it's at the heart of the conurbation. However the territory of the City of Manchester occupies only a small part of the Manchester area - its border meanders seemingly at random through the middle of the built up area, reaching no further than Heaton Park in the north, and running out into open countryside only 10 miles to the south around Manchester Airport.

So where exactly does this border run? Which districts are under the control of Manchester Town Hall, and which fall outside? I once lived in Berlin, and saw how an arbitrary line on a map meant the difference between living under Moscow or as part of the West. The boundary around the City of Manchester is hardly the Berlin Wall, but there are notable differences on either side of the line, and some of the forgotten marginal areas remind me a little of Berlin during the Cold War.

We commence our journey at Albert Bridge, only three quarters of a mile (1.2km) from Manchester Town Hall. Here, Manchester ends and Salford starts. The border runs down the centre of the river Irwell.

Photographs of the same scene
taken from the archive

 

WE'RE STANDING ON ALBERT BRIDGE, just ten minutes walk from Manchester Town Hall. The right bank of the Irwell is beyond the control of Manchester City Council and belongs to the City of Salford.

The office and residential development visible on the right was built in the 1980's on the site of an old warehouse. Just off the picture to the right is the Mark Addy pub.

To the left is the Pump House Museum, which tells the story of working people from the point of view of the Labour movement.

I was on business in another UK city, and asked if my client organisation had an office in Manchester. "No, we don't have an office in Manchester." To double check they looked at their A-Z list of regional offices under M. Sure enough, there was no mention of an office in Manchester.

It turned out that they do have an office here, and it's located in the development to the right of the picture, in Salford.

THIS office building, now called Riverside House, formerly used by the DHSS (Department of Health and Social Security) DSS, and the Inland Revenue, was recently taken over and completely renovated by the all-powerful Bruntwood Properties.

This building stands next to the River Irwell, at Albert Bridge, on the Salford side.

The early 60's 'Lego-brick' office complex with the curvy rectangular windows has been given a new lease of life thanks to an interior and exterior makeover, and a coat of brilliant white paint, courtesy of owners Bruntwood.

  • Previously I said this building was called Albert Bridge House - this is wrong. Albert Bridge House is the one on the Manchester side, used by the Inland Revenue. Thanks to Lawrence O'Rourke (no relation) for pointing out the mistake!

Photograph of the same scene
taken from the archive

 

LOOKING NORTH-EAST along the Irwell, with Albert Bridge house just visible on the far left, we see the sharply raked mast and supporting cables of Trinity Bridge, also known as Calatrava bridge, after its designer. The City of Salford is on the left and the City of Manchester is on the right.

Under construction, just behind the bridge on the Salford side, is a new hotel, which is partially obscuring the view of the Cathedral in the distance. On the opposite bank, scaffolding shrouds a new rooftop addition to Century Buildings, the former offices of National Vulcan, now being converted into luxury apartments.

Behind the crane centre left is Highland House, another 1960's office block being converted into offices and apartments by Bruntwood Properties.

Let's cycle up along the river on the Manchester side past Parsonage Gardens and Blackfriars Bridge to Victoria Bridge and the Cathedral. Pictures on the left taken from the EWM archive.

VICTORIA BRIDGE was completed in the 1830's and for many years was one of the principle links between neighbouring towns of Salford and Manchester.

Overlooking the bridge is Manchester Cathedral, which today as every day, is flying the flag of St George, flag of England and of the Church of England.

The bridge retains beautiful early 19th century features, including the decorative orb, on its curved pedestal with the words 'VICTORIA BRIDGE' carved in neo-classical capital letters.

Little regard for history has been shown by the placing of an ugly contemporary sign close to the centre of the bridge.

While in June 2000 the new Millennium bridge in London is closed due to design flaws, the 160 year old Victoria Bridge is rendering sterling service every day.

SALFORD BUS STATION used to occupy this area, sandwiched between Victoria Bridge and the approach to the former Exchange Station.

In the stone on the wall of the bridge can be seen the mark left when the railings were ripped out during World War Two to be used for weapons production.

This view, was once dominated by the dark green buses of Salford Corporation. It became a car park after bus services were reorganised in 1974. Up till recently, it had the last remaining set of 1950's street lamps, of the type seen on old pictures of Albert Square, and also used on the road I grew up on.

I have heard talk of returning this site to its former use as a bus station. Under redevelopment proposals, the Exchange Station approach, including the bridge, are to be removed, creating more space, but changing the character of this corner of the city centre for ever.

THE FORMER THRELFALLS BREWERY, off Chapel Street, Salford is, in mid-2000, finally undergoing its long-promised redevelopment into the Deva Centre.

We are standing under the bridge which carries the railway line from Victoria Station to Salford Central.

I'll be taking another photograph from this spot when the work is completed.

Photographs of the same scene
taken from the archive

 

SALFORD BRIDGE is at the very end of Chapel Street. We are looking south west, along the Irwell, with Manchester Cathedral on the left, and Highland House on the right.

Highland House was built in the early 1960's and in mid-2000 is undergoing redevelopment by Bruntwood Properties into offices and apartments. Exterior paintwork in white and dark blue - the company colours - has transformed the grimy concrete exterior of this monolithic tower, making it as attractive as it's ever going to be.

The embankment on the City of Manchester side, to the left, is being renovated. The boundary between the Manchester and Salford local authorities runs along the centre of the River Irwell for another two miles (3km) as far as the start of the former Docks in Pomona.

We now go under the railway bridge and up to the crossroads with Trinity Way. On our right we see a sight that's dear to many a Mancunian...

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