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Humphrey's house - the legacy of a merchant

CHETHAM'S School, or "Chets", as it's affectionately known to Mancunians, stands on Long Millgate, opposite Victoria Station. Its cloistered glories are largely hidden from view, but it has been an architectural gem in the city for generations.

Its Oxbridge-style buildings have survived several centuries, two bomb blitzes - one at the hands of the Nazis in 1941 and then another, 55 years later, when the IRA destroyed or weakened much of nearby buildings like the Corn Exchange and Arndale Centre.

Last year marked the 350th anniversary of the institution originally founded in 1653 as a "place of learning for the sons of the poor" by philanthropist Humphrey Chetham.

In his will, wealthy textile merchant Chetham left £7,000 (an enormous sum in those days) to found a "hospital", or school, for 40 boys - to be selected from the parishes of Manchester, Salford, Droylsden, Bolton and Crumpsall. In the first days, a high proportion of the boys had only one parent, or none at all, and it was Chetham's intention that they be raised and educated "under good government", in a caring environment. They studied arithmetic, grammar and the classics, and, on leaving at the age of 14, apprenticeships were sought "with honest masters of local trades".

Over the years, Chetham's has had many academic incarnations - in 1952 it was a boys' grammar school, then in 1969 it became what it remains today: a specialist school for the musically gifted, of both sexes.

It has now earned a world-class reputation as a training ground for talented young musicians.

But the 17th century uniforms, comprising blue frock coats, buckled shoes, yellow stockings and pancake hat, are still on show on Founder's Day, the last day of the spring term, providing a sartorial treat for passers-by as the annual procession marches sombrely to a service at nearby Manchester Cathedral. Around 300 day and boarding pupils, aged eight to 18, attend the school, which has contributed to the success of many distinguished musicians and academics. Fees are means-tested according to income, and corporate donations and government funding help to ensure that children of real merit are not denied a place because of their background.

Romance

Famous alumni include the actor Max Beesley - more famed latterly for his romance with Mel B than his musical skills.

A commemorative book, Chetham's, A Century In Photographs, has also just been published. The often poignant photos tell a fascinating tale of the days when the standard school diet was bread, porridge, and tea or cocoa for breakfast, soup or stew at mid-day and bread and marge for tea - with cake on Sundays. There are pictures, too, of the summer camps in which the entire school went away for a fortnight to north Wales, as well as the visits of VIP guests such as the late Queen Mother and Prince Charles.

The government has awarded Chetham's a grant of £1m towards the 350th anniversary appeal, the Millgate Project. This £2m plan aims to provide a music technology and recording suite, improved boys' boarding accommodation, and two new classrooms.

The new buildings will add to the radical changes seen in the last few years in the area around the school. Only seven years ago, Chetham's was surrounded by run-down shops, and its imposing architecture looked on to a dreary car park.

Then came the IRA bomb, in June, 1996. The former car park is now Cathedral Gardens, backdrop to Urbis, the museum of the modern city, with its dramatic, glass sloped roof. Long Millgate is once again a proud part of the city.

The school featured a couple of years ago in a Granada TV series called Chets, which followed the fortunes of pupils and staff over a 12-month period - as those who watched the series will be aware, the pupils here are lucky to have some of the most dedicated teachers in the UK.

Tourism

Chetham's is also something of a tourist attraction - there are regular tours for the public, as well as lunchtime concerts. The school also has its own CD industry, and you can sample their wares on the internet.

The ancient part of the building - you enter via a security gate where the resident cat, Beethoven, stands guard - is like a scaled-down Oxbridge college.

Highlights of a visit include the world-renowned Chetham's Library, where Karl Marx famously researched (the chair and table at which he sat are still there), and it's an awesome thought just how many scholars have been here over the centuries. There's also the baronial hall, now used for recitals.

Walking through these hallowed cloisters, one really does get a sense of the past - a feeling, also, of the sense of community which pervades this venerable Manchester institution.

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