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Monday, 1st March 2004

Greatest little show on earth

Susan Press

NOT every historic building is a particularly stately one. Churches, castles, palaces and fine civic places may comprise by far the bulk of the "must preserve at all costs" list, compiled by bodies like the National Trust and English Heritage. But some buildings are just as invaluable, despite being of more modest a hue.

Such a site is the Grade 2 listed Circus Tavern, on Portland Street, in the heart of the city. It dates from the 1790s and is officially the smallest pub in the city - and allegedly the sixth smallest in the world. It is also one of the oldest and friendliest places to have a pint in Manchester.

Its name apparently dates from long-gone days when Portland Street attracted performers, travelling entertainers and artists, due to the nearby proximity of a circus at Chatham Street. It has been a pub since the 19th century.

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Run for the past two years by gregarious former clubowner George Aarchando, its previous landlord was one Terry Corless, who fought a long and brave battle, in the face of considerable pressure, to preserve its unique charm as a place to spend a few hours.

Whatever time of day you call in, the Circus is always humming with life and wry humour. It is a favourite port of call for reporters from the BBC HQ down the road, and for many restaurateurs from nearby Chinatown. Despite its location and cosmopolitan clientele, the feel is very much that of a village "local" - perhaps because many of the regulars have been coming here for nigh on 50 years, and there's always lots of gossip.

Interior

Its interior is also one of the few among Manchester hostelries to have escaped big brewery refurbishment or the bulldozers, which at the height of redevelopment in the 1960s and 1970s destroyed dozens of old pubs nearby. Compare and contrast that careless attitude with Liverpool, where most of the old Victorian pubs are still much as they were.

But, in fairness, that is largely because it's only now that Merseyside is starting to enjoy the kind of investment we in Manchester have enjoyed for decades. And, 20 years ago, investment in pubs and clubs meant ripping out old interiors. Not so here. But, if your idea of a fun night out is a swanky bar with celebrities and alco-pops, then the Circus is definitely not for you. Its tiny bar can just about cope with draught bitter, lager and Guinness - although, until pretty recently, only bitter was served. Wine is another contemporary addition, due to the fact that more women now frequent the place.

There are two public rooms (with space for about a dozen people in each), with wooden benches and tables. It's all a bit of a squeeze, but also very cosy. On the walls are pictures of George Aarchando's days as a night owl, schmoozing with the likes of Bernard Manning and Manchester United and City footballers.

But most of the banter takes place in the narrow corridor linking the two bars. Women, it must be said, are still in the minority, as the Circus ambience is fairly blokey and basic. So is the food - but, to be fair, the crisps, peanuts and pieces of pork pie which are often handed round at peak times are absolutely free.

Real ale pressure group Camra describes it all it as "utterly delightful". And, having visited on several occasions over the years, I would pretty much concur with that conclusion.

By the way, other heritage pubs in Manchester worthy of note include the green-and-cream tiled Peveril of the Peak, in Chepstow Street - in its day favoured by the likes of Robbie Coltrane, Steve Coogan and Helen Mirren, who held a party there to mark the end of filming Prime Suspect. The Briton's Protection, Great Bridgewater Street, is also just a few yards down the road and equally worth a look. Indeed, if you're up for a pub crawl, you can fit all three in, as part of a historical hostelry tour.