manchester tourist guide regional sightseeing
Friday, 25th July 2003
MiddletonA stubborn people with a wooden steeple. Middleton folk and their character apparently.
Tourist information: 01706 356592.
On A664 Rochdale Road, 5 miles (8 km) from the city centre. Nearest rail station to the town centre is at Mills Hill, a mile to the east.
The area around the Parish Church and Long Street, up from the dreary Arndale Shopping Centre, is a fascinating historical area. Like Knutsford, it contains work from one of Britain's most exciting architectural practices from that fascinating era in design a hundred years ago. Unlike Knutsford, this little town, enmeshed in Manchester's urban sprawl, is struggling to come to terms with the decline in the traditional industries. Fortunately its qualities shine through the changed circumstances.
The parish church of St Leonard (0161 643 2693) is very special. The weather boarding on the tower dates from 1667 when new bells were hung. Most of the present building dates from 1524 but includes a tower and porch from 1412 and there is a repositioned Norman arch and some Norman piers from around 1100. Most of the 1524 work was paid for by Sir Richard Assheton, the hero of Flodden Field, where the English defeated the Scots. On the south wall in the sanctuary there is a war memorial window with the names of local men who took part in the battle - the oldest such memorial anywhere. There is a good medieval screen with stalls and misericords, a fine box pew and several funerary brasses.
Thomas Langley, one of England's greatest early politicians, recently burdened with the title 'the first spin-doctor', came from Middleton. He completed an early rebuilding of the church and rededicated it to St Leonard. Langley was Chancellor of England under three Kings and the Bishop of Durham from 1406.
From the churchyard to the south, there is a superb, but robust, view across the valley of the River Irk, to the east and south. This captures the spirit of industrial Lancashire which has faded as cotton and engineering have declined. Down the steep hill from the church lies the restored Old Grammar School of 1586 on Boarshaw Road. Edgar Wood and JH Sellars built several important buildings in the town. Long Street, Chapel, contains exquisite Arts and Crafts meets Art Nouveau designs in its details and plans. Dronfield Street School from 1908-10, at present disgracefully dilapidated, points ahead to the International Modern movement. Nearby are several interesting smaller houses - a trail leaflet can be found at the Library in Jubilee Gardens. Opposite the library is the 500 year old Boar's Head Inn. Links within ManchesterOnline
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