manchester tourist guide regional sightseeing
Friday, 25th July 2003
Liverpool and Chester Liverpool's Albert DockLiverpool has won European City of Culture 2008 and presents a remarkable cityscape and a lively contemporary scene. People who are spending some time in Manchester should always take an excursion west. The city centre still has its Georgian squares and terraces (it has more Georgian buildings than Bath), its Victorian warehouses and its docks - indeed there are more architecturally listed buildings here than anywhere outside London. When you step out from Lime Street Station, the first sight that greets you is the Classical St George's Hall from 1856. Former poet laureate Sir John Betjeman thought this so important he said he'd die to defend it.
The tang of the sea is never far away. The Ferry trip, a mile over the River Mersey, to Birkenhead, with the magnificent Pier Head buildings a constant companion, is tremendous. Indeed the three buildings of the Pier Head, the Liver, the Cunard and the Port of Liverpool buildings (known locally as the Three Graces), sum up the wealth of the British Empire in its Edwardian heyday, 100 years ago. At the time of press it is proposed that a remarkable building will be added to the Waterfront here - dubbed the Fourth Grace, this fluid, futuristic form called Cloud from Will Alsop will further enhance the waterfront.
Along from the Pierhead is Albert Dock. This Dock was built in the 1840s and had fallen into decay and dereliction as Britain's trade moved increasingly to Europe. Revived in the 1980s, today it houses the Tate North art gallery, the wonderful Maritime Museum and the interesting Museum of Liverpool Life, The Beatles Story, plus some fine pubs, restaurants and shops.
Close to the previously mentioned St George's Hall is Liverpool Museum on William Brown Street (undergoing a massive refurbishment). On the same street you'll find the refurbished Walker Art Gallery with a world-famous collection of paintings and decorative arts covering the whole development of European art. Round the corner on Whitehall is the award-winning, and very innovative and unusual, Conservation Centre. A recent addition in the Ropeworks area of town is the sexy arts centre with arthouse cinema FACT.
The two cathedrals, the Roman Catholic, from 1967, on Mount Pleasant and the Anglican Cathedral, finished 1978, dominate the skyline, and are connected by Hope Street. The former is by Sir Frederick Gibberd and is famous for its stained glass windows and huge altar. The latter by Sir Giles Gilbert Scott, took 75 years to build, and is the largest Anglican Cathedral in the world, a gargantuan tribute to the power of the Almighty. The view from the top of the tower is spectacular.
Stanley Park, north east of the city, divides Goodison Park, home of Everton FC from Anfield, home of Liverpool FC. The Shankley Gates, the emotional You'll Never Walk Alone and the Spion Kop are integral parts of Liverpool's heritage. The museum and ground can be toured. Both clubs have submitted plans to move to larger grounds.
For many, Liverpool and The Beatles are one and the same thing. The Cavern, on Mathew Street, demolished in the 1970s has been re-excavated and reopened. The best way to relive Beatlemania is to take a trip on the excellent Magical Mystery Tour, which visits Penny Lane, Strawberry Fields and other Beatles landmarks. There is also the aforementioned Beatles Story at Albert Dock, the Beatles shop on Mathew Street and its neighbour, the John Lennon Gallery, where you can purchase original artworks by the late star.
In a different tradition, on Hope Street is the fabulous Art Deco Philharmonic Hall, a magnificent classical music venue and home to the Royal Liverpool Philharmonic Orchestra. Across the road is the Philharmonic boozer with perhaps the most ostentatious pub interior in the UK.
Over on The Wirral, in Port Sunlight, the celebrated model village designed for Lord Leverhulme's workers, is the Lady Lever Art Gallery, with Turners, Constables and pre-Raphaelite works. Also on the Wirral is the impressive Historic Warships Museum. A few kilometres south of Liverpool is Chester. Founded by the Romans in the C1 as Deva, a legionary fort for the XXth Legion. It was strategically placed to control North Wales and north west England from a site with sea access via the River Dee. Chester continued as an important city until the C17, when the Dee silted up, and Liverpool supplanted it as a trading port. Today it is a prosperous small city, a magnet for tourists enchanted by its combination of history and retail.
One of the qualities which makes Chester special is the complete circle of defensive walls. A stroll around these takes about an hour. Roman traces include an amphitheatre, bathhouses and temples. The Grosvenor Museum has the full story of Deva. The Cathedral was once an abbey, and it shows, with cloisters to one side, and extensive grounds beyond the Close and the Bishop's house. Chester is dotted with churches of different periods, but its most remarkable mediaeval feature is The Rows: the unique covered walkways with shops on two levels. Outside Chester is Chester Zoo, the North of England's premier zoo set in 10 acres, and with a fine record of breeding endangered species. A little further north again is the Blue Planet Aquarium, one of the best of its kind in Britain and excellent for families. Links within ManchesterOnline
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