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Wales: Life at a canter on Anglesey

A MIXED trail of country paths and fields ended with a glorious, flat, grassy stretch, running parallel to the Menai Straits, the beach and sea below, and Caernarfon Castle broody against a bright blue sky on the opposite bank.

A memorable setting for a horse-mad daughter's first canter outside the confines of riding school - and she laughed out loud with delight.

The professionalism of the riding centre and the quality of their horses had a lot to do with it.

Before we were allowed to venture out, Judith Hutchins, who runs the Tal Y Foel Riding Centre at Dwyran, checked our competence in the indoor ring and decided (more on account of my maternal nervousness than Alex's inexperience) to send two staff on the ride, despite there being only three of us, which meant that if anyone couldn't keep up with the pace they would have an escort at the back.

But everyone did keep up, and the back of a horse is a perfect place for some sociable sightseeing.

Stories

While we were careering round the countryside, the other half of the family was down the road, helping to bottle-feed new-born lambs at Foel Farm and going out into the fields to size up the giant Shire horses from the back of a covered wagon, and we met them there and swapped stories of the morning over home-made cakes and hot chocolcate.

This was one of those mid-season breaks that school authorities throw into the timetable to cause trouble for working parents. You want to make the most of the time together, but you can't go far without using up precious annual leave.

Welsh Rarebits is a collection of some of the best hotels in Wales and, despite its awfully bad collective title, does list some gems, from intimate foodie havens to luxuriously romantic houses, some tucked out of the way, others next to historic tourist spots.

Knowing what makes for happy families, we booked in at Tre-Ysgawen Hall, at Llangefni in the centre of Anglesey - one, because we could get there in a couple of hours or so, and two, because behind its wonderfully handsome 19th century frontage they have built a rather good indoor pool, gym and spa.

Which meant that while the kids swam, and hub ran nowhere while catching up on the football, I could have a sauna followed by a pampering massage.

The hotel has expanded into the corporate market, hosting conferences and meetings; it's a favourite place to get married, too, and the pool and gym are open to local members - but it has retained a quirky personality and grand charm.

Ceremony

The beautifully proportioned rooms of the original house are now, variously, a comfortable bar, breakfast room and two dining rooms, where very serious food is served up with due ceremony.

Starters of guinea fowl stuffed with lemon and herb couscous, and fricassee of wild mushroom in a courgette and rosemary cream in a filo basket, were followed by John Dory and scallops, and sea-bass in a leek and cucumber sauce.

All artfully done, and rounded off with raspberry brulée and almond wafer biscuits. The menu changes frequently, and people visit here for the restaurant alone.

While all this gastronomy was going on, both daughters were exploiting reception's kind offer of room service, sat in front of a Disney film and scoffed melon and chicken with pasta, delivered by the same good-humoured, but increasingly harassed, waiter who was also serving the main dining room.

As well as an obliging staff, another plus for families is the fact that they have interconnecting rooms, so you can keep an eye on the offspring but still have your own space.

If you get it right, a couple of nights away can do you as much good as a couple of weeks, and it is surprising how much you can cram in on Anglesey, to store up the memories and still chill out.

You can get to Beaumaris in time for lunch and a walk round the ruins, visit the dramatic South Stack and wonder at the sheer number of sea birds, have a bracing walk on any number of beaches the next day, potter round the market at Llangefni, chill in the hotel spa - and still have time for a leisurely breakfast before heading for the horses.