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Wednesday, 21st June 2006

Northern England: Food and finery in the Lakes

Graham Buckley

Relax by the water

IT was raining stair rods. The top of Gummer's How was shrouded in low cloud beneath which flurries of grey, driving rain scudded across the fellside.

White horses were being whipped across the waters of Lake Windermere by a southerly wind, rocking the moored yachts, their loose rigging slapping against aluminium masts.

It was decision time. Should we move now - or wait? Deciding to act, I leaned across the table, poured another cup of coffee, then snuggled deeper into the easy chair and stared contentedly through the conservatory windows at the wild landscape outside.

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There are two ways to do the Lake District. There's the back-pack and walking boots route - or there's the pampered way. We were doing the latter.

The previous evening we had booked into the Lakeside Hotel and Spa - the Lake District's best rated four-star hotel - in Newby Bridge, at the southern end of Lake Windermere.

Dating back to the 17th century, this former coaching inn has been brought bang up to date, offering 76 individually decorated bedrooms, many offering breathtaking views of the lake.

There's a fully equipped conference centre for up to 100 delegates, nine meeting rooms and a selection of private dining rooms. It even received the Hotel Loo of the Year award in 2005.

Private

The Lakeside Spa - available only to hotel residents - has a 17 metre swimming pool, a poolside Jacuzzi, sauna, steam room, gymnasium and three tranquil spa treatment rooms, complemented by a private relaxation area.

The staff are pleasant, friendly and helpful, without being intrusive. They just seem to be there when you needed them.

Our room was on the ground floor. Patio doors opened on to a small paved area, beyond which a lawn stretched to the water's edge. You can't get nearer to the lake without getting your feet wet.

The room had been decorated with a rich combination of fabrics and colours and the bed, as expected, was comfortable.

That evening, we dined in the oak-panelled Lakeview Restaurant. If you prefer, there is also the John Ruskin's Brasserie, where three courses, inclusive of coffee, cost about £31.

We chose from the gourmet menu which comprises six courses, some being "mystery" courses.

As appetisers we had west coast crab with Cornichon mayonnaise, sauteed shrimps, nutmeg foam and won ton crisp and a fabulous duck confit and cured foie gras terrine.

For entrees, my wife chose corn-fed chicken breast with rolled leg filled with thyme farce with a "hot pot" potato and morel ragout, while I had pan-fried loin of venison served with a classic chocolate sauce.

Dessert came in the form of crème-brulée and a fresh fruit platter.

Holker Hall

And the "mystery" courses? Well, I'm not going to spoil the surprise here, only to say we certainly weren't disappointed.

The Lakeside is rightly proud of its menu. The only problem for me was to get across just how good it is.

Fortunately, this was solved by an elderly couple sitting behind us in the restaurant. They finished their meal first, but before they left they called over one of the staff.

They explained that they had travelled extensively in France and had dined in many French restaurants, some rated the best of the best, but they had never eaten such a fine meal as they had had at the Lakeside.

There was a slight pause, then the man said: "Would you kindly convey our compliments to the chef".

Now, that's style - and that is what the Lakeside is all about. On its brochure it declares: "We overlook nothing but the lake," and that certainly is no idle boast.

By the time we had booked out the following morning, the rain had stopped.

We were heading south on a 15 minute drive to the Holker Hall and gardens on the Furness Peninsula.

Welcome

The house is the home of Lord and Lady Cavendish and we quickly found that the staff have the knack of making visitors feel like welcome guests rather than tourists.

The part of the house open to the public is the west wing, which was rebuilt in red standstone after being destroyed by fire in 1871.

All the oak panelling - and there is a lot of it - comes from trees from the estate. The beautiful wood carving was done by estate workers.

While walking round, you soon become aware of family connections - there are links with the Howards of Castle Howard, the Devonshires of Chatsworth House and a "king" - the king of British jazz Humphrey Littleton. Even Uncle Mac, former Prime Minister Harold MacMillan, got his feet under the table by marrying Lady Dorothy Cavendish.

The house just oozes history, but it is outside in the gardens where it really shows its splendour.

The 25 acres are a fine example of a mixed English garden, and features an arboretum, herbaceous borders, a Victorian rockery and majestic water features including a limestone cascade.

Holker's Great Lime, which probably dates from the early 17th century, was selected as one of Britain's 50 Great Trees in honour of the Queen's Golden Jubilee. The estate is also home to the Lakeland Motor Museum.

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