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Greece: Wine and Saints on Kefalonia

MRYTOS: World famous

Out of the blue, the silver sarcophagus had been opened by a guardian monk in the monastery devoted to the 16th century patron saint of Kefalonia.

This usually only happens twice a year at festival times. A stunned, mostly teenage, group of visitors filed forward, genuflecting, crossing themselves, before reaching inside. Would it be sacrilege if I, not of their faith, joined them? I took the plunge.

The shadowy top half of St Gerasimos resembled one of those preserved bog people, the lower half of the torso, which I tentatively fumbled, was sheathed in some kind of velvet.

The reek of masking incense was intense. I staggered out into the light of the Omala Valley, as a rainbow reared above the surrounding vineyards.

Procession

It would be amazing to be there on August 16, when the mummified remains are taken in procession down to the saint's well (he was a water diviner) - an event described in Captain Corelli's Mandolin, the book and film that put this gorgeous Ionian island on tourists' maps. On the saint's day, water is said to miraculously gush up and the plane tree he planted shakes its branches.

In the shadow of hogback Mount Enos, this is inland Kefalonia, home to its progressive Rombala winery - whose wines, alas, were mostly disappointing - and the diverting Melissani and Dhrogarati caves.

Melissani, a shrine to Pan in prehistoric times, contains 20,000-year-old stalactites.

The roof of the cave collapsed during the devastating 1953 earthquake, allowing in the light that turns the waters a bright turquoise that dazzled us during our boat trip.

But it is not really the interior that impresses in Kefalonia. The craggy, switchback northern coastline is fantastically spectacular.

We visited in spring when the whole, limestone landscape was a riot of wild flowers and herb scents.

Not to be missed, if you can face the zigzag drive down from the cliffs, are Assos, a small fishing village dominated by a ruined castle, and Myrtos beach, regularly voted one of the world's prettiest. Its shimmering opal waters are best viewed from high above. At sand level, it is less extraordinary.

Our base, Fiskardo, a yachting centre, was the only town of consequence to escape the great earthquake which killed 600 islanders and injured thousands more (In the lively capital, Argostoli, the fascinating Folklore Museum has a sombre room chronicling before and after the 'quake). In Corelli the movie, east coast port Sami stands in for Argostoli).

Haven

In a beautiful sheltered harbour, Fiskardo's waterfront is a shimmering mix of top-of-the-range yachts and café awnings. Perhaps too many café awnings. The Captain's Cabin is a characterful haven, with affordable food, for the yacht folk, the food possibly better at nearby Nefeli.

We got trapped in another joint where they piled on the kitsch `traditonal' dancing before we fled. If only he had been Zorba the Geek! I was staying, courtesy of progressive Ionian Island Holidays, in the spanking new Kalokeri Apartment Suites, self-catering units with spectacular sea views and a shared swimming pool.

At the northern tip of Fiskardo bay stand the remains of a Venetian lighthouse and the ruins of a Northern church.

I ambled along the nature trail there, as the showers gave way to sunshine and sprawled on the headland among poppies and marigolds, watching the ferry chug its way in, against the backdrop of Ithaka across the water.

FACTFILE

IONIAN Island Holidays, the specialist Greek operator, flies from Manchester to Kefalonia and to Preveza for Lefkada offering seven and 14-night holidays to a variety of villas with private pool, boutique hotels and self-catering apartments.

Prices begin at £340 for a week at The Waterfront Apartments in Fiscardo in Kefalonia based on four sharing. Price includes flights, transfers and welcome hamper.

Extra flights from Manchester will offer holidays to the end of October including the half-term break.

Special deals between September 30 and October 9 give two weeks for the price of one or two islands for the price of one.
There is also a 20 per cent reduction on selected seven-night self-catering holidays between September 30 and October 16.

Book with Ionian Island Holidays on 020 8459 0777 or online at the website listed below.

I had to leave my car at Manchester Airport and I highly recommend the parking service provided by Airport Parking and Hotels (APH), which offers a range of services including parking, and packages featuring an overnight stay in a hotel and luxurious airport lounges. Prices for 10 days parking at Manchester airport start from £54.90, Access to a Manchester airport lounge starts from £17.50.

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