manchester

holidays

reviews

Greece: Ithaka delivers its own distractions

QUAKE PROOF: Cast-iron bell tower

It was to be our final destination on our Ionian island-hop but first we took the longer ferry trip out to Lefkada, only nominally an island. It is attached by a causeway to the mainland but feels very much its own place. Nydhri is a long, carbon-monoxide choked drag of eateries and shops with seafront devoted to package holidays.

One plus is the chance to take a boat trip out to the islands, lovely, unspoilt Meganissi, Madhouri, family home of a 19th century poet and political hero Aristotelis Valaoritis (who has a particularly wonderful, offbeat Phonograph Museum devoted to him in Lefkada town) and Skorpios, the Onassis family estate, now a ghostly if well-guarded attraction, haunted by the shades of Jackie O's paparazzi past (you can't land).

We sailed the Ionian seas out of Nydhri in the company of a bandana-topped old salt called Captain Gerry in his replica, wooden trireme, the Odysseas. Recommended, but I did jettison my complimentary ouzo over the side.

Distinctive

Lefkada Town I really liked. Good craic, or whatever its Greek cousin is called. It is built alongside a seawater lagoon and no buildings are allowed over three storeys. A distinctive feature of the churches are free-standing bell towers made of cast-iron, as a further precaution against earthquakes. I bought a lovely Mary and Child icon in one of the shops along the mercantile main street.

The interior of Lefkada is a pastoral delight, very green, with astonishing sea views, like its fellow Ionian islands. Such a shame my visit was so fleeting, but I was determined not to miss Ithaka, something else again.

Of the three islands on the trip, this is the one I want to revisit, to walk its hills and, next time, take in all the alleged Homeric sites - Arethusa's Spring, Cave of the Nymphs and Laertes' Field. There is so much to see. The yachting harbour of Kioni, all Technicolor. Venetian houses and sails are Ithaca's picture postcard draw, but it all felt a bit snooty.

The capital Vathi is more attractive with an idyllic setting at the crux of a fjord-like bay beyond craggy headlands, flower-festooned white houses climbing the hillsides. On the seafront, away from the main bustle, is the Perantzada 1811 Art Hotel, a lovely art-filled, designer bolthole with a couple of sophisticated yet affordable restaurants around the corner.

Contrast 

In contrast, up in the hills after visiting a tiny church with 12th century frescoes, we came upon a real throwback that summed up the island's traditional charm.

There was no name on the bar, but it felt welcoming.

I was sipping one of those bitter, chewy Greek coffees we usually call Turkish when I suddenly registered the presence of a vast stuffed vulture over the counter. It didn't seem out of place in the dark room, the shelves piled with yesteryear's canned staples, the pick and mix, rickety tables and chairs. The Ionian sun pierced the doorway. A waft of resin floated in. Outside there was the sound of goatbells.

Homer described Ithaka as ``rocky and unfit for horses but fertile{hellip} a good place for goats''. They were everywhere on the ascent of Neritos, the island's highest mountain.

On top is the 16th century monastery of Kathara. From its bell tower we gazed on one of Greece's finest views, over Vathi, Molos Bay and far beyond to the Peleponnese. Epic.

FACTFILE

IONIAN Island Holidays, the specialist Greek operator, flies from Manchester to Kefalonia and to Preveza for Lefkada offering seven and 14-night holidays to a variety of villas with pool, boutique hotels and self-catering apartments.

Prices begin at £340 for a week at The Waterfront Apartments in Fiscardo in Kefalonia based on four sharing. Price includes flights, transfers and welcome hamper.

Extra flights from Manchester will offer holidays to the end of October. including the half-term break Special deals between September 30 and October 9 give two weeks for the price of one or two islands for the price of one.

There is also a 20 per cent reduction on selected seven-night self-catering holidays between September 30 and October 16. Book with Ionian Island Holidays on 020 8459 0777 or online at the website listed below.

I had to leave my car at Manchester Airport and I recommend the parking service provided by Airport Parking and Hotels (APH), which offers a range of services including parking, and packages featuring an overnight stay in a hotel and luxurious airport lounges. Prices for 10 days parking at Manchester airport start from £54.90, Access to a Manchester airport lounge starts from £17.50.

Related stories

Links to other web sites

© Copyright 2008 Manchester Evening News. If you wish to use this article for commercial purposes please contact our syndication department.