Sallback Skiing Feature by Paul Smith for Travel Page.DATE CREATED:15/09/2006
I'D feasted on wild mountain goat, bashed a nail into a log with the wrong side of a hammer, marvelled at a burly man in lederhosen moulding rude shapes out of balloons and now I was hurtling headfirst down an icy track.
It's safe to say nights in Saalbach are as action-packed as the days. My final evening in one of Austria's most popular skiing resorts was spent at the Spielberghaus mountainside restaurant, a venue best reached by hitching a ride on an oversized snowmobile.
The preferred way to journey home is by toboggan, or in, layman's terms, face-down on a polished plastic tray steered imprecisely with a length of string.
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It becomes especially attractive if you've consumed enough extra-strong Buddha schnapps - so called because of the iced triangular glasses it's served in - to feel uncharacteristically courageous. And if, like me, you crave entertainment away from the slopes, atmospheric Saalbach offers much stimulation.
It prides itself on its après ski, which is rated among the best in the Alps and offers something for everyone - from generations of families to party animals.
The pretty, typically Tyrolean village is about an hour's drive from the world heritage city of Salzburg.
It boasts a wide range of bars, restaurants and accommodation, all within easy access of the vast skiing area.
Charming
From charming mountainside eateries to throbbing discos and cosy chalets to pricey hotels, Saalbach welcomes a mixed bunch of visitors, with many from Britain and Scandinavia.
Paired with its neighbour on the other side of the Glemmtal Valley, Hinterglemm, the resort benefits from more than 125 miles of pistes serviced by 55 lifts - some new for the coming season.
It has the largest connected skiing area in the country, with lifts running from the centre of the village, so transport isn't an issue. Nor is hiring kit or getting tuition, with several ski shops and schools close by. A week's adult skiing pass costs under 200 euros.
The gentle nursery slopes are good for beginners, although tuition tends to be in large groups, which means not everyone receives as much attention as they might require.
For intermediate skiers, the large variety of long, tree-lined red runs is superb - as long as the snow is at its powdery best.
And this is where it's possible to gently criticise Saalbach. Its south-facing slopes and relatively low altitude - it peaks at around 2000m - mean that the snow suffers in strong sun. This is tackled with an extensive artificial snow-making system, but it means going in peak season - when good skiing time is extended - has its advantages.
I wouldn't recommend making a late visit - I went in March, right near the end - particularly if you're an inexperienced skier, as the deteriorating post-lunch snow is difficult to navigate.
For expert skiers, Hinterglemm's north-facing slopes provide the best black runs and untamed moguls, while there are eight miles of snowboard-only runs, floodlit night skiing areas and the opportunity to go off-piste.
Experienced skiers say Saalbach isn't great for them, but when the sun isn't shining too hard it's a pleasant place for beginners and intermediates to work on their carving - and their toboggan techniques.
