manchester

holidays

reviews

Italy: Going to the dogs

SUNNY: Passo Tonale

Dozens of chained huskies tethered to wooden stakes were barking as we gingerly approached.

The clanking of metal links, coupled with the cacophony of excited yelps and barks, were surely enough to start an avalanche, I feared, as I looked up at the majestic Presena glacier silhouetted against the azure winter sky.

Once assured we were safe, I relaxed and waited for the midday sun to dip behind the mountains before we could set off with the dog sledges into a huge pasture sheltering under a duvet of snow.

While waiting, I fed and watered the dogs and fantasised about the trip - I envisaged a team of dogs, so I was a bit disappointed when just two were shackled in front of my sledge.

But the illusion was shattered even further when I was told that as well as the dogs I, too, was expected to do my fair share of work.

Leaning into corners and easing off the brakes was bad enough, but having to jump off the sledge and run up the steeper terrain so as not to tire out the dogs, resulted in tiring me out instead.

But, despite being exhausted, the experience was so exhilarating I'd recommend it to anyone. It also made a welcome break from skiing.

However, improving my skills on the piste was the reason I had come to the Italian Dolomites and a week practising on the gloriously sunny south-facing slopes of Passo Tonale had certainly done that.

Compensations 

For, although the resort is not as scenic as some, its compensations more than make up for it.

Set in a wide sunny valley bordering the Italian regions of Trento and Lombardy, the town and nearby Ponte di Legno, to which it is linked, offer more than 70km of pistes of varying difficulty, making it a great destination for beginners, intermediates and advanced skiers.

The resort is serviced by a modern network of around 30 lifts. I was staying at the Hotel Paradiso, on the foot of the slopes, which meant I could ski straight to my door at the end of the day.

Although Passo Tonale does not have the liveliest of nightlife, there are sufficient bars and it is ideal for the dedicated skier. It has been hailed as Italy's fastest-growing ski area and has already made a name for itself as a child-friendly resort, with plenty of activities in addition to skiing and snowboarding.

For as well as husky rides, the resort offers ice-skating, sledging, skidoo trips and a snow playground at the bottom of the slopes, especially for smaller children.

But, in addition to its child- oriented facilities and abundance of slopes for all levels, what particularly struck me about Passo Tonale is that it is largely unknown by British skiers.

Of course, everyone - from the waiters to the ski lift workers - speaks English, so you'll never feel lost if there is a problem.

Blissful

But the fact that it is a resort popular with Italians, Russians and French enables you to brush up on language skills and gives you the feeling of being far from home. The lack of queues at the lifts was blissful, too.

My week at the end of January meant I had avoided Christmas and the half-term crowds, but it was still the height of the ski season and the most I found myself waiting in line was four minutes.

And, despite the lack of crowds, there was still a wonderful ambience.

Lunchtimes and early evenings were spent drinking bombardinos - an egg-based Italian version of our hot toddies - set to a background of excited chatter and the latest Euro pop releases.

And, for those who fancied a stroll into town, there were more than a few shops dotted along the main street to provide an opportunity to while away the hours.

In addition to boutiques offering designer ski wear, stylish pottery and hand-carved wooden trinkets, many shops also stocked an array of interesting liqueurs as well as a ubiquitous range of troll ornaments.

No wonder my boyfriend didn't miss his mum!

Select the link below for more information.

© Copyright 2008 Manchester Evening News. If you wish to use this article for commercial purposes please contact our syndication department.