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China: Ancient land's new image

BUSTLE: Nanjing Road

At least that is how our Tai Chi teacher demonstrated the elusive, perfect arm stroke required for us to master the "self-defence" sequence.

Dressed in a traditional white silk pyjama suit and fake designer trainers, our instructor - at least twice the age of her pupils but with triple the energy and suppleness - was typical of China's dizzying mix of the traditional and modern.

After years as a tourist desert, western chains are now scrabbling to buy or sign building agreements on several new hotels.

With more flights to and within China than ever before - and preparations for the 2008 Olympics well under way - tourism leaders are preparing for a huge influx of adventurous visitors keen to explore beyond Beijing.

Our first stop was Shanghai and we arrived straight into the Friday afternoon rush hour, giving us a chance to soak up the buzz of China's trading capital.

To avoid the congestion, take the new Maglev train which reaches speeds of 270mph.

The city teems with an official population of 16m, although locals insist it is nearer 20m.

The staggering 30-floor tower blocks, home to some of the city's smartest hotels, dominate the skyline of Shanghai.

Melting pot

We stayed at the Hyland Sofitel, just off the famous Nanjing Road, a 24-hour melting pot packed with tourists, businessmen and serious shoppers.

At its best, after dark, when the temperature drops, you can truly appreciate the variety of tacky neon. Smart department stores compete with street traders selling `knock-off' watches or try a hand massage - a popular after-dinner treat.

Around the corner the former British concession, known as the Bund, built on the success of the 19th century opium trade, is now home to elegant restaurants and designer boutiques - at Three On the Bund there's even an Evian spa.

We sampled contemporary Chinese food at the Whampoa Club and the fusion menu at the newest hotspot Laris.

We joined the locals strolling along the Bund which looks out across the Huangpu River to the striking skyline of hi-tech Pudong, dominated by the Oriental Pearl TV Tower.

Knowledgeable government guides whisked us around some of the city's best spots - the Yuyuan Gardens, the Jade Buddha temple, and Xintiandi, a laid-back mix of shops, bars, restaurants, which is known for its dim sum or steamed dumplings.

Then we tried our bartering skills in the Old Street Market, where most traders speak English and sell stunning and cheap teapots, silks and chopsticks.

XI'AN: Terracotta army

Mention the city to any native and they will reply with the popular saying: "In heaven there is paradise, on Earth there are Hangzhou and Suzhou." Life here revolves around the tranquil West Lake; stroll on one of the vast promenades, take in the scent of the lotus flowers and the stunning mountain views then relax in the popular garden teahouses.

Given the national obsession with tea we took the chance to visit a nearby village, famous for producing the perfect brew.

After seeing this year's crop soaking up the sun and watching traditional and surprisingly simple processing of the green leaves, we experienced the serious and potentially lethal tea ceremony.

The fresh green tea has a bitter aftertaste that is addictive once you get used to it, but it is impossible to remember the precise manners required for this ancient ceremony or relax during the dramatic flourishes and enthusiastic swilling of large quantities of boiling water.

The tea itself is said to contain magical antioxidants which hold back the years, boost immunity and cure all minor ailments.

The West Lake is surrounded by hotels and holiday homes, which cater for China's rich and famous.

It also has some of the best restaurants for traditional country-style cooking including the local specialties - Beggar's Chicken, which is wrapped in lotus leaves and newspapers before cooking and fish fresh from the lake cooked in a delicious soy sauce and vinegar - try Lou Wai Lou.

Impressive

No visit to China would be complete without a trip to see the Terracotta warriors. Located in the north west of the country the former capital, Xi'an, is a gateway to a more traditional China, and is home to the impressive national museum.

It also has a strong Middle Eastern influence with a Muslim quarter, home to the Great Mosque inside its own Feng Shui garden, and a busy street market.

The warriors, whose secret burial chamber was discovered accidentally by a farmer 30 years ago, are now one of the top world heritage sites and attract visitors year round - despite the extreme temperatures of the region.

The farmer has become a local celebrity who earns his government pension by sitting in the museum signing autographs for tourists but refusing all photo requests.

The 8,000 foot soldiers, cavalry and officers built around 200 BC to guard the mausoleums of a powerful emperors were destroyed just a few years later during riots in the political fallout of his death.

Most of the soldiers - all painstakingly carved with different faces and accurate battle dress - lie broken, but the sheer scale of the site is impressive.

Archaeologists are now painstakingly repairing the figures while checking the surrounding countryside for new pits.

The new Han Yangling Imperial Tomb pit filled with miniature figures guarding the Emperor Jindi opened last year.

This museum has been built over the burial sites so visitors walk above the exhibits and watch the experts uncovering yet more treasures.

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