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Italy: New fans for bella slopes

SKI MASTER: Alex Oliver

And as we looked out from a sunny brow, under a cobalt sky, amid near-perfect snow, it was nigh on impossible to argue. Val di Fassa is simply stunning.

My son, six-year-old son Alex, and I were in the spectacular Dolomites of north east Italy. And if there is a more beautiful and breathtaking mountain range in Europe, I haven't found it.

Monumental near-vertical craggy limestone cliffs thrust out of the tree cloaked massif for all the world like gargantuan mountain-top fortresses.

But there is a lot more to this neck of the woods than just spine-tingling scenery. The skiing is fantastic - and goes on forever.

Our resort village, Canazei (at 1,460m/4,752ft), has high-altitude skiing up to 9,676ft (2,950m) and a very good snow record from early winter through to spring.

Okay, the signs had not looked good when our coach finally arrived an hour late, to be greeted by drizzle and dusk temperatures of 6C. But it snowed that night and the next morning and conditions were near-perfect all week.

There are 120km of piste at Val di Fassa but it links to a mind-boggling 1,220km of piste in the Dolomiti Superski area, which is all on a single ski pass.

It has everything from gentle and wide tree-lined blue runs, in places like Arabba, to the steep and challenging slopes of Marmolada and even the men's World Cup downhill run at Selva, in neighbouring Val Gardena - and what a blast that was!

You could ski here for a month and not get bored.

Dizzing

With such a dizzying choice it really was worth grabbing a place on the free Crystal ski escort guiding service, while Alex had morning ski lessons in the friendly and well-organised Italian ski school.

A ski guide can show you the highlights, escape the crowds and queues (few in March) and reveal hidden gems you might never find alone. It also helps orientate you without wasting time "uhmming" and "ahhing" about route choices and guessing where you are.

Our escort/guide, Alun Porter gave us a flying start to getting the best out of the resorts and conditions.

His knowledge, dry-humour and enthusiasm really came into its own, when high winds closed our options and postponed our 26km circuit of the famous and deliciously awe-inspiring Sella Ronda massif.

Instead we explored the often steep but relatively sheltered slopes above Alba and from Sella Brunech and across on red runs to Buffaure di Sopra, above neighbouring Pozza di Fassa.

More weather-induced lift closures kept Alun on his mobile phone and thinking laterally. Returning to Alba, we finished with a stonking black run down from the Rifugio Ciampac that was an adrenalin-junkie's dream. Marvellous.

Alun had played a blinder - as he had the day before, side stepping the throngs and cutting (literally) to the chase on a "fast and furious" tour of the best runs of Col Rodella, Piz Sella, Plan de Gralba and the Selva areas.

We also got to learn a bit about the unique Ladin culture of this part of Italy, which before 1919 had been a part of Austria - a fact that's apparent in the Germanic Tyrolean-style architecture, not to mention the local names, cuisine and traditional clothes. The latter, for men, come complete with their trademark grey, wide-brimmed conical felt hats and Tyrolean-style jackets and shorts. Natty?... er, not exactly me. But it's lovely the tradition still survives.

Canazei has a good array of bars and restaurants to suit your pocket.

The International Bar is a convivial place for weiss bier, jager tee or a snack and is conveniently placed at the bottom of the delightful Lupo Bianco/Pista del Bosco run in the characterful old town.

On the Val di Fassa slopes there are 18 bars and restaurants, ranging from the old-world timber chalet charm of El Brodol to modern family-friendly eateries and "booming" snowboarder outposts with bikini-clad babes dancing on the bar (er, apparently).

The Val Pudra, in Plan de Gralba, was another excellent choice for local cuisine. The goulash soup (6Euros) was fantastic after a hard morning on the slopes. But beware the dried chillis!

For the evenings, the hotel restaurant, El Ciasel, in Canazei, was a big hit with families and only five minutes walk from our chalet. Fantastic and huge pizzas (from 6Euro) in a friendly atmosphere.

Convivial

Our Crystal chalet, the Traviata, was comfy and in good order. The Traviata sleeps up to 24 and during our stay was dominated by a dozen or so forty-something former university pals and their various partners. Thankfully, they were great fun and made for a relaxed, convivial week. It proved a lucky break for this "single parent" who was pleased to team up with others on the slopes.

The other bonus here is that Crystal chalet Violetta, next door, houses the creche and Whizz Kids Club. This was a boon when Alex was too pooped to hit the slopes some afternoons, or when I wanted the chance to take a full day to explore the magical Sella Ronda Circuit. It also gave my son the chance to make new pals and go sledging, play games, paint or just chill out.

But skiing with my son was, as ever, the real highlight. And it was a real thrill to see him come on in leaps and bounds, coping nonchalantly (and with a huge grin) with steeper runs as the week progressed.

The best moments were watching him zip down the cresta run-style banking run with humps and jumps in the main Belvedere snow park. "Again, Dad. Again!" came the cry. Fantastic feeling as my heart ballooned with pride and pleasure.

I'd never been on a skiing trip to Italy before - an O-level in French being the clincher in the choice of my first forays on the slopes.

Now I've vowed to break out the Italian language tapes in earnest - it's bella Italia for me.

Crystal (0870 160 6040) offers holidays to the Family Choice resort of Val di Fassa from £364 for seven nights, staying at the chalet Traviata. Prices include return flights, transfers and accommodation with breakfast, afternoon tea and three-course dinner with complimentary wine on six nights. Free and reduced places for children aged 2-11 are available when sharing a room with two adults.

Pepi Penguin Creche and Whizz Kids Club: half day from £60, full day from £120, ski school escort service from £25, lunch and lunchtime supervision (noon to 2pm) from £20. More information: crystalski.co.uk

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