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UK: Castles and coves in Northumberland

BREATHTAKING: Northumberland

It is a coast so steeped in the history it sends a cold shiver down your back.

But gone are the days when Northumbrians watched fearfully for sails on the horizon, the only invaders these days are tourists - walkers, fishermen, divers and windsurfers attracted to the long golden beaches and that refreshing North Sea breeze.

Sporting activities abound and it is one of the top places in the country for the wetsuit brigade.

But don't expect it to be teeming with flippers and fishing rods, this coast is big enough to still provide isolation to reflect on its beauty and history.

A great place to see the best of Northumberland is the tiny fishing village of Beadnell, just south of busy Seahouses.

Beadnell has a great history itself, close to Bronze Age discoveries and with its own 16th century peel tower and 13th century chapel. In the past it has been a haunt for smugglers - 2,700 gallons of brandy, 1,000 gallons of wine and 400 gallons of rum and gin were seized by customs officers in 1762.

Obviously local people like the good life and that continues today at the Beadnell Towers Hotel which has an excellent restaurant.

Chef Michael McEvoy offers fine food, freshly prepared and sourced from local suppliers. There is a wide choice of dishes from homemade pies to "house specials". There are plenty of cod, prawn, mussel and kipper creations there and the chef is brave enough to stray inland a little too - try the steak selection, the pork fillet moutarde and the fine vegetarian choices.

Amazing 

On our visit, most of our party plumped for the steak and ale pie and it was amazing to see such pleasure as they finished every crumb.

I chose the scallops thermidor which was so fresh and delicious I had to be restrained from licking my plate. Homemade afters, including a beautiful sticky toffee pudding, were savoured and then we couldn't help but deliberate on what we were going to choose on our final night.

The Towers offers ten en-suite bedrooms including a number of family rooms. The rooms are bright and welcoming and reflect the attitude of proprietors Michael Colvin and Allyson Kilpatrick - Geordies who have moved back to the North East after years in the pub trade further south.

They have given the place a personal touch since they arrived earlier this year. All bedrooms are equipped with tea and coffee making facilities, television, hairdryer and trouser press.

The couple's friendly approach extends to their staff and they are never short on advice on how to use their hotel as a starting point to explore the coast, which is five minutes' walk from the front door.

Michael suggested a couple of days out as we leant on the bar, which offers real ale, before we sat down for dinner. There is a large dining room but the lounge and bar areas are ever so comfortable.

Beadnell is great for exploring "the Secret Kingdom", places like Holy Island, the Farne Islands and the castles at Alnwick, Bamburgh and Warkworth.

My favourite is within walking distance. Looking south you can see Dunstanburgh Castle and it is a pleasant hour's stroll to get there, along the beach. English Heritage owns this 14th century ruin, and what is left is an impressive sight. In fact, the walk to the castle conjures up images of knights in armour charging towards the gates with flags flapping gaily behind.

Just a mile further south is Craster with its famous kippers and a different approach along the coast to Dunstanburgh.

If walking supported by your putter is more your bag, then try out one of the many local golf courses. Dustanburgh has a fine one beneath the shadow of the castle and there is one just north at Seahouses.

The best thing about the Northumbrian coast is its all-year-round appeal. Even in the stormiest weather it has a dramatic beauty, and listen while I whisper: "NOT A LOT OF PEOPLE KNOW ABOUT IT!"

We stayed in a premium room priced at £49.95 per person, which includes breakfast and dinner - bed and breakfast, £34.95

The Beadnell Towers Hotel is at Chathill, Beadnell, Northumberland telephone 01665 721211 or Beadnelltowers.com. 

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