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Wednesday, 13th December 2006

Slovenia: Dine like a king

Carmel Thomason

LAKE BLED: Julian Alps

I'VE just seen the Slovenian president, Janez Drnovsek. OK, so he's not Brad Pitt and I was in Ljubljana, the capital of Slovenia, but I'm not telling you in a celeb-spotting kind of way. Rather it was how I saw him that made me go, "wow!"

Perhaps you might expect to catch a glimpse of the head of state if you are sight-seeing around his official residence or political buildings. What you don't expect is for him to stroll past your table when you are tucking into Sunday lunch outside a tiny backstreet restaurant.

Now most people wouldn't recognise President Drnovsek if they fell over him. However you might imagine that you'd get some indication that he was a man of some importance, if only by the presence of an armed escort, or at the very least a couple of burly security guards dressed in black, talking furtively into walkie-talkies. President Drnovesek had neither.

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So, how did I know it was him? Two men walked out of Pri Skofu, the restaurant where we were dining al fresco, under the shade of a lime tree. None of us batted an eyelid except our guide, Thomas, who said: "That's our president."

Which one? It wasn't obvious, but when they got into a nearby car, I guessed that he wasn't the one driving.

"Over here he's like the equivalent of your Queen," Thomas went on. Well, I've never stumbled across the Queen while quietly eating a chocolate mousse before. I wasn't convinced, until I turned on the TV that night to see him looking out at me.

By the way, Pri Skofu is not like the Ivy in London, with long waiting lists to get in, even if you could afford the prices.

On the table next to us were four British women drinking a chilled carafe of white wine and chatting about EastEnders. So it's not exactly exclusive, but it is well worth a visit, even if you don't get to see the president while you're there. I suppose it just goes to show how laid back this country can be as well as being the kind of place where you can dine like a king without breaking the bank.

Natural beauty

Compared to most European destinations, everything is reasonably priced in Slovenia, which is always a nice bonus for any holiday. Also, its natural beauty means that there is much to enjoy without spending anything at all.

Ljubljana has more of a town feel than the rush of a capital. It is picture-postcard pretty and old photographs show that little has changed since the mid-19th century.

On Sunday the main shopping area is closed but the strip along by the river is alive with a bustling flea market selling everything from antique furniture to old radios, paintings, clothes, jewellery and toys.

You don't have to drive far to witness the country's majestic mountain scenery, crystal clear rivers and multi-coloured meadows filled with soft grasses and a mass of wild flowers.

The Slovenian tourist office claims: "The Julian Alps are a natural doctor for the aching soul of modern, urban man." Lying in the cushioned meadows of Triglav National Park, with the heat of the sun on my face looking up at the snow tipped peaks, it's not hard to see why.

The mountains are the characteristic stamp of this country, so much so that there is even a mountain on its national flag.

Adrenaline

Hiking, mountain climbing, cycling, rafting, canyoning, kayaking and just about any other sport that involves mountains, rivers and adrenaline rushes can be enjoyed here.

Lake Bled is a good base from which to explore this region and is a stunning setting. The clear Alpine lake shimmering with reflected colours is encircled by mountains and lush forest with a tiny island in the centre on which sits the small chapel of Santa Maria.

A leisurely walk around the full circle of the lake takes between one-and-a-half and two hours. The island can be seen from all sides of the lake, but for the best view sit on the balcony of the late Marshal Tito's former summer house. It is now a four-star hotel, Vila Bled, but you don't have to be a resident to enjoy a coffee, cake and spectacular views in these elegant 1950s style surroundings.

If you take a look you're in good company. Paul McCartney stayed here last year. He also dined in a quirky little restaurant in the village, Okarina, where his autograph is displayed on the wall. It reads: "Thank you for the fantastic food and good vibrations."

Even the well-travelled rock star is satisfied, the simple Slovenian cuisine is hearty for the stomach while the Alpine atmosphere provides food for the soul.

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