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Wednesday, 20th December 2006

France: Great skiing, but no statue of Bez

Graeme McGilliard

Serre Chevalier, French Alps

NO matter where you go on holiday, something always reminds you of home. But a calling card from urban Mancunia among the snow-covered peaks of the French Alps?

As the transfer from Turin neared its end and we crossed the border from Italy into France at Montgenevre, the first villages of Serre Chevalier came into view. Rather than one resort, Serre is a series of picturesque hamlets snuggled tight into the Guisanne valley.

And there it was. A road sign I'd love to have nicked and taken home, if I'd been younger, dafter and that way inclined: LE BEZ.

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Yes folks, there is a village named after the world's favourite maraca shaker. Is this where he came to get away from it all? Was there perhaps a statue of the great man in the main square? Disappointingly, the answer was no - and the only freaky dancin' moves were my own on the slopes.

You see, despite the name, Le Bez and the rest of Serre Chevalier isn't a place for the 24-hour party people. Sure, there are pubs and clubs, but if that's why you've come, you might be a little disappointed.

What there is, though, is great skiing and lots of it. After all, this is France's fifth largest ski area, even though most Brits could probably reel off at least eight or nine French resorts before this place pops into their heads.

Your pass here covers 250km of pistes across four areas - more than enough for most to explore in a week - and the four villages are linked by free shuttle buses if you find yourself far from home when the lifts stop in late afternoon.

A daily wonder

Our base at the Chalet Pyrene, in Villeneuve next to Le Bez, was less than a five minute walk from both a gondola and chairlifts that took you up to the action. Riding them first thing in the morning was a daily wonder, as once you rise beyond the tree line, the full majesty of the mountains opens up before you.

From there, it's easy to start finding your way about. Starting at Serre Chevalier in the middle of the piste map, an intermediate standard skier can travel up, across and then down into the village of Briancon on the left of the ski area or Monetier on the far right. After that, the only decision to be made is what to have for lunch.

Most of the runs here are north- facing, so when they get a dump of snow they keep it. The downside, however, is that it can be a little cold, so depending on what time of year you go, wear an extra layer. Oh, and pack the sunblock, too, as they average 300 days of sunshine a year here, more than any other French resort.

One of my favourite recurring moments skiing is pausing for breath on the side of a deserted piste, taking in the surroundings up close and all around, savouring the silence and isolation and breathing in that clean mountain air.

It's impossible for the office to feel further away. Serre Chevalier has an abundance of runs for all levels of ability. In our chalet was a confirmed off-piste extreme boarder and he found enough excitement in the black runs, mogul fields and unpisted areas to keep him out of mischief all week.

There were also several beginners, who took advantage of the wonderful ski school at village level.

If being stuck in the one place - albeit a 250km play area - isn't enough, it is easy to explore further. The lift pass covers Montgenevre on the Italian border and, with the purchase of an additional pass, you can get over to Sestriere, the 2004 Winter Olympics venue.

Venturing out into the village, the accent is firmly on the rustic and it's easy to see why it has acquired the reputation as the Provence of the Alps. No wonder Serre Chevalier was a holiday of happy Mondays, Tuesdays, Wednesdays...

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