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Wales: More than a walk

OFFA: Spectacular views

Some 1,200 years on the Offa's Dyke path National Trail has become a must for the walking fraternity.

Grand claims had been made by yours truly which went something like this: "I'm a super fit ref, play squash regularly, so I can do a bit of a walk!"

So a challenge was struck - buy some boots and go on the biggest walk of my life {hellip} 56 miles over four days.

The section of the Offa's Dyke path selected by Chepstow-based Celtic Trails bordered the Beacons (I was last there 35 years ago as an Army cadet) and the Black Mountains, and runs between White Castle and Knighton.

Questions about compasses and torches had been ignored by Pete-Knows-Best, but predictably I did remember a footnote on our arrival-day instructions about The Hunter's Moon pub near the Old Rectory bed and breakfast in Llangattock Lingoed, Abergavenny. Mrs Karen Ball, the first of our four landladies for the trip, served up a splendid wholesome meal on arrival.

Next morning a full English breakfast was the order of the day - as it was each morning - as the big walk got under way from White Castle.

Excellent 

Now, I knew our destination for the day - Longtown - would be a hard place to find as it wasn't actually on the maps that illustrate the excellent National Trail guide thoughtfully provided by Celtic.

We got lost twice as the late afternoon darkness descended, before finally meeting up with fretting Ivy Pritchard, the landlady of our next port of call, Olchon Cottage Farm. Ivy soon had us chilled out again with fruitcake and a pot of tea, before another sumptuous meal.

Back on the ridge bordering England and Wales next morning we come across grazing wild ponies as we clambered up the imposing 2,219 foot Hay Bluff.

We were well on the way to perhaps the most recognisable place on our autumn adventure - Hay-on-Wye, the quaint market town mecca for book-lovers. Accommodation here is at The Bear, naturally enough on Bear Street, with our landlady Sue Newall.

We celebrated managing to reach the half-way stage of my inaugural hike down at the famous Old Black Lion which was, yes you've guessed it, on Lion Street.

So far we'd had fantastic weather, even sunshine, but by day three, the inevitable downpour hit us.

Striking 

We were no longer in the mood to stop and admire the striking features.

When we arrived at Kington, our hostess Polly Miller made sure we were snug in her garden house. Hot water bottles were out now as we discussed aching muscles before braving the wind and rain to find a suitable restaurant.

The last day was probably the best. We strode out in style for the remaining 15 miles back to my car at Knighton.

What makes Offa's trail the best in the land, I'm reliably informed, is the variety of terrain. Go in autumn and the views are as good anything in New England.

So for this novice it was mission accomplished, but it was the quartet of landladies, Karen, Ivy, Sue and Polly I remain indebted to, for their traditional hospitality did much to help me achieve my goal.

For details contact Celtic Trails 01600 860846 who organise accommodation, transport and walks.

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